Given that Norway is one of the most expensive countries in Europe, we opted for self contained accommodation, to allow us to cook and cut down on living costs. The cute little apartment, in a quiet little street in suburban Bergen, provided a welcome contrast to the noise and hassle of Paris and London.
While the apartment allowed us to avoid exposure to the Liechtenstein-esque prices, it meant that we didn't get the same feel for the place, as you do interacting with other people in restaurants, bars and cafes.
On the first night, after the fish market had shut and the tour groups had gone back to their hotels and cruise ships for authentic Norwegian meals (one restaurant was offering pizza on its 'Taste of Norway' menu), we took a wander around town. Bergen, which has a population of around 250,000 is a bigger place than most realise, I think largely due to the concentration of tourist attractions and services around the ports and the dispersal of communities around the hills (they call them mountains, but after spending time in the Alps, I can't) and waterways that permeate the city.
The harbour side markets, long past their bustling heyday, do feel like they are now put on largely for tourists and visitors. This is especially the case as the fresh fish, food and fruit on sale is often available cheaper elsewhere. Even though, the markets are well worth a visit, particularly if you are looking for [salted fish], salmon, whale (should your conscience allow - ours didn't) and reindeer (yes it did each day and does 260 odd days a year).
Well rested, and having seen some of the Olympics, the next day we set off for a visit to the fjords, by train, train, boat, bus and train. Although we spent more time on public transport in one day than many do in a month, it was well worth it. The landscape we saw was striking, beautiful and unforgiving. Hillsides with impossible angles, give way to cliffs and then to moody blue green water, water that is deeper than [x]m in places.
While I will upload some photos later on today, be warned that due to some muppets on the boat feeding seagulls many photos have guest appearances from seagulls. I really wonder about some people, ok, about a lot of people.
On the boat, we also came across some WAUs (we are unique travelers), a peculiar species that travels the world drawing attention to where they come from, how far away it is and how that makes them unique and special. Should another traveler indicate that they to are from the same place, the WAU becomes withdrawn, dismissive or details, typically without any request from anyone, how where they are from is more remote, special and unique than their perceived interloper. This particular couple of WAUs had, 40 years earlier, lived in country south Australia for a month or two.
On our last day in Bergen, in preparation for the climb, we took to the hills to get some kms into our legs. What started as an easy meander up a highway width path, turned into a muddy scramble up hillsides, during which we played navigator for a tired and frustrated family. With Bergen comparatively far north, the hills take on an alpine character from around 400m.
The hills also offer the opportunity to go paragliding. We resisted the urge for a repeat of Chamonix and left a family who thought it was cheap because there was a tandem deal (and two of them could go together) to enjoy the experience.
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